Amadeo opened his desk drawer and took out the small leather-bound notebook he called his supplementaire…

There were the numbered recipes in the big book in the restaurant’s pantry, for whenever his cooks wanted to refresh their memory, and there was, carried in Amadeo’s vest pocket, his supplementaire. The recipes in the first could be shared with especially insistent customers — who were always puzzled about why the results never quite measured up when they tried them out at home.

#193 Gumbo Noir

The following recipe is from the 1974 Blue Mocker Press cookbook, A TINGLE ON THE TONGUE: RECIPES FROM THE ROSE, edited by Mary-Alice Baywreath. It includes some of Amadeo Roselyn’s original notes. (Both Boudreau’s and Barbary’s were still open in 1974. The unfortunate Jorge was either very elderly by then, or long dead.)

1 Large Tender Chicken

1 pound of Boudreau’s Hot Andouille, chopped. Use only Boudreau’s. Tell him what you want it for, and he will go into the back and find it for you. If Boudreau’s cannot be obtained, another hot sausage will do, I suppose, but it must be fiery. Try Barbary’s General on Helenshed.

2/3 cup of lard, also preferably from Boudreau’s. [Ed. Note: vegetable oil, for modern eaters worried about their waistlines]

2/3 cup of flour

Ground black pepper

Ground Cayenne

Dried  Thyme

3 crushed Bay Leaves

3 Tbs File powder

1 green bell, chopped

1 bunch scallions, sliced

1 scant handful of minced parsley

Enough chopped garlic to hold in your palm.
 
Cut up the chicken as if for fricassee

Heat the lard [or oil] in a large pot. Cook the chicken in it until the outside is brown, then remove to a plate.

Add the flour, stirring constantly. Make a roux the color of melted chocolate. add the chopped vegetables. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring.

Add a splash of water, the cut up chicken, salt, black pepper, cayenne, thyme, and bay leaves. Gradually add almost 2 more quarts of water, waiting until it is hot (but not boiling) before adding more.

Reduce the fire and allow it to simmer. Taste frequently, adding spices as needed.

After almost an hour, remove the chicken to a platter and allow it to cool slightly. The flesh and skin should come easily from the bones using just a fork. Add the meat to the pot.

After the chicken meat has been added, cook for a minute more, then turn off the heat. Remove the pot from the burner, and if it shows any sign of turbulence, allow it to rest. Only then may you add the file, which will turn the broth black, thicken it, and reduce the fire of the cayenne and sausage. Even those who fear highly spiced food can enjoy it, while those who prefer heat will relish the warmth in the aftertaste.

Serve in bowls, over a SMALL amount of boiled rice. Remind Jorge this is not a perlo and diners should enjoy the FULL benefit of the broth.