…tucked into a rather grimy side-street. (Its sign was included in an expensive, nationally broadcast car ad back in the oughts, meant to conjure up neo-noir vibes. I think it involved a car chase.) It’s been around for decades, the late owner a Chinese-American local culinary patriarch whose descendants still staff and run the restaurant. Three dining rooms, energetic wait staff, delicously fiery food.
Since it’s close to an Imax theater, it used to be where local critics had dinner before attending advance screenings. I can remember eating there with Michael and spotting several in the dining room at other tables.
It’s not far from the Mechanics, so before COVID I either ate there or picked up lunch takeout at least once a week. I was on a first-name basis with them, and occasionally they added hot-and-sour-soup as lagniappe to my order. They still call me by my first name. Yesterday, when I had lunch there with a friend, the smiling waitress commented, “You still like this, eh?” as she served me my hot and sour chicken.
Pam Troy 